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The Best Finish for Mahogany - FineWoodworking When planning the finish for this mahogany bookcase, Peter Gedrys knew that he had a diamond in the rough The boards already had beautiful figure and color that had been allowed to age to a rich, natural tone So his strategy was to keep things simple while enhancing and protecting the wood These techniques can be adapted to almost any mahogany piece The first step was to use dye to make
Finishing Mahogany - FineWoodworking Jewitt also includes handy finishing tips, such as using Scotch Brite pads for sanding From Fine Woodworking #164 When the cabinetmakers in England and America who built early 18th-century furniture fell in love with mahogany, most of the wood was of a color and quality that few woodworkers will have the chance to work with ever again
Add Richness to Mahogany - FineWoodworking Sand the mahogany to 180 grit, then apply the oil-based dye undiluted onto the raw wood with a brush or rag and allow it to cure for at least 12 hours Spit coat—To keep the upcoming coat of stain from being absorbed too deeply in the wood, dilute SealCoat shellac by 50% with denatured alcohol and apply one thin coat with a rag Allow it to
Finishing Mahogany Exterior Door - FineWoodworking Marine finishes are not always the easiest to find and it grieves me to think of a lovely oak, teak, mahogany, fir, redwood or similar nice wood door painted in mauve goop Bob from Fl inspired me with his continuing and accurate statements about the failings of a clear coat and the advantages of a good quality exterior paint
finishing African Mahogany - FineWoodworking In the wood finishes, typically an oil varnish mix might be used You can also use a light film finish, such as a wiping varnish, though I think heavy film finishes without pore filling tend to look quite unattractive Mahogany can be left natural without stain or without more than a light dye to pull the various tones together
Finishing mahogany - FineWoodworking Wipe on the oil, sand to make an oil wood dust slurry that gets packed into the pores, let sit 20 minutes, and wipe off with a motion bias to the grain 1-2x wet sandings is all you should need For more information, get a copy of Jeff Jewitt's book on Finishing published by Taunton ($40) Good luck, Paul
Finish for Mahogany - FineWoodworking *Mahogany will take oil stains well I always use grain filler with mahogany after staining I've finished Mahogany with about everything - Poly, Lacquer, oil For outdoor use, use an oil, either linseed oil or tung oil Cut at least 50% with turpentine or thinner Poly will make a hard protective finish
Filling Pores - FineWoodworking To blend in the pores with the surrounding wood, apply natural filler or filler colored to match the wood Natural water-based fillers dry to a chalky, off-white color that may have to be tinted on light woods, as well as darker woods like mahogany and walnut To make the wood look completely natural, use transparent filler
Mahogany unstained finish - FineWoodworking Back in the days of mahogany boats we used to bleach it first, then apply a filler stain and wiipe down hard This would give the wood both light and dark highlights and make lightly figured wood look highly figured Did the same thing to teak, too Rob, your method looks much like the results of the above Edited 7 31 2003 10:37:02 AM ET by
Finishing mahogany table top - FineWoodworking Almost completed a mahogany dining table and am unsure as to which finish to use I would like to fire up the wood and at the same time apply a strong finish which does not mind the odd wine spill I thought about tung oil with water (oil?) based poly on top Any recommendations please ?