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DOUMEN COUNTY JINGANZHEN GRAIN & EDIBLE OIL FTY

-China

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Corporate Name:
DOUMEN COUNTY JINGANZHEN GRAIN & EDIBLE OIL FTY
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Company Address: Doumen County, Guangdong,,,China 
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Postal Code:
519180 
Telephone Number: 86-756-5522126 
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Industrial Classification: Agriculture -- Plant oils 
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Company News:
  • Bluing Blackening of steel - Fit and Finish - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    Watch on He talks about "bluing salts" at some point, perhaps in another video I don't remember Anyone able to explain the ingredients of this "goop"? Sincerely, Alveprins
  • Canterbury knife (was Osmund knife) - Show and Tell - Bladesmiths . . .
    It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax boiled lineseed oil gum turpentine) I happened to already have those ingredients It has quite a potent smell It didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax Making sheaths is fun
  • Recommendations for minimising decarb - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    I want to harden some small things with a lot of surface detail Probably made from W2 Can you guess what I'm thinking of? I guess that avoiding decarb would be greated challenge to keeping the surface detail hard? I have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against
  • Quench Tank Ideas - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work IF you use a steel that hardens well in goop, which limits you to an alloy slow quench steel like 5160 or O-1
  • Quenched with Rutlands asking advice - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    The goop helped me from spilling transmission fluid and or other oils all over the place but that's as far as it goes I'll get a better edge quench without it I will re-do this piece, normalizing it 3X, and I will try the clay again in water I'll move through the sanding process with progressive grits as outlined
  • Cutlers resin - Fit and Finish - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off Apparently they had glue like that in the Bronze age It can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart The Japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira) The Japanese call it nikawa
  • Edge Quench or Soft-back Draw? - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    What I have use to edge quench is a roasting pan filled with my version of Goddard's Goop Its a mixture of pan drippings, vegetable oil, old candles, and a little parrafin At room temperature it's hard in the pan and it's easy to transport and store I like to take a piece of scrap steel and melt a chanel in the goop before I quench my blade
  • AISI 1084 carbon steel - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of Goddard's Goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax Sets up solid at room temperature, and I usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades
  • Issues forge welding - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    Are you using flux? Is the smoke goop from the MIG welder getting in between the layers? Finally, how hard are you hitting it to set the weld? If you're using flux and smacking it really hard to get the flux out, you may be blowing the weld apart on impact Gentle taps until you know it's solid
  • Bacon Grease Quench - Metallurgy and other enigmas - Bladesmiths Forum . . .
    One of the whackier quenches I've used (I'm sorry, who can resist trying different quenching media?!) is based on Wayne Goddards Goop I used one part lard, one part paraffin and one part ATF




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